The
journey was a grind. At night during the trip, a clingy Tina wrapped
herself around me like a climber desperate for a supporting surface.
That messed up my blood circulation and foreshadowed the
constrictions that were to come.
By
the time I got to New York my feet felt as leaden as an astronaut
walking on the moon. My neck was as stiff as a pillar molded in
concrete. I felt stupid for second-guessing myself. Initially I had
thought to send a gift, but later decided against it.
It
was the wedding of a niece. She was 31, and I had long looked forward
to this day. However, I hadn’t reckoned with my age and the
toll the nine-hour drive would take on my body when I let sentiments
ride over my best judgment.
Tina
and I began the journey driving up to Durham to connect with my
brother Usen. There, along with his family of six, we crammed into a
van made for the convenience of six passengers. But Usen and Jamie,
his wife, were willing to sacrifice their personal comfort to take us
along just so we could cut costs.
We
left at 10 p.m. At one of our several stops at rest areas so the kids
could visit the restroom, I noticed that my feet no longer fit into
my sandals. My joints behaved as if a battle between soldier ants and
bees were raging in them. Worse, I couldn’t turn my neck
without much effort.
As
soon as we got to New York and checked into our hotel, I hit the bed
and was instantly swept away by sleep. By midday when Tina woke me, I
was still as groggy with body aches as a sodden log floating in a
lake. I was grateful that she went out with her cousins, aunt, and
uncle for the wedding rehearsal which ceremony brought us to the Big
Apple.
Left
on my own I decided to reset my circulation by exploring the
neighborhood of the hotel. I tried not to betray I was visiting from
laidback Greensboro. So I mimicked the swagger of the huge city. I
knew, however, I could not successfully ape the fleeting rhythms of
the sprawling city.
Along
the street, bicyclists and motorcyclists juggling for space were
weaving dangerously in and out of traffic. To the side I saw an old
bicycle tethered with iron chains to a pole. A sign on the pole read:
“A cyclist was killed here.”
Cringing
wild-eyed, I felt my pockets for my ID just in case! An African
saying that, “A leopard may have a beautiful skin but not so
its heart,” tugged at my mind, so I put caution in every step
to avoid being taken unawares should the streets spring a surprise.
Looking
over my shoulders once saved me in Lagos when I resisted an early
morning heist and for that effrontery, was shot by the thugs.
Remembering
that nasty experience, I felt like turning back to the hotel, but
curiosity prodded me on. How could I resist the sights spread out
before me when I knew the Yoruba saying that, “Anyone who sees
beauty and does not look at it will soon be poor”? So I walked
till my feet were sore. All the time I was conscious of being watched
by the savvy New Yorkers, but I tried not to betray myself.
Something
about New York defies easy assumption. Even a casual glance reveals
the city is home to every human race under the sun. Anyone walking
down its street hears a diversity of tongues that justifies it being
called the capital of the world. Night and day, its mixed and
colorful population sparkles like broken china in the sun, to borrow
a phrase from Clark-Bekederemo, a Nigerian poet.
But
as the Zulus also remark, “The most beautiful fig may contain a
worm.” So for all its glitter, the fear of lurking danger is a
very real possibility especially for visitors unfamiliar with its
ways.
Whether
coming in from the air, sea, or road, the packed towers of New York
seem to menacingly jump from the surrounding waters and reach out to
pump hands and bewitch the sight of the visitor. The serrated
skyline of the city looks like the jagged edge of a giant chainsaw.
Each
time I visit by road, driving through the tunnel linking New York
with New Jew Jersey and, crossing the bridge over the Hudson River, I
get that spellbound feeling of one watching a tightrope walker. I
feel like I am passing through a baptism by immersion where I leave
behind the burdens of a past life and take on the commitment of
another.
I
am dazed by the congested human and motor traffic. Towering buildings
with spires and cliff-like staircases stapled to their sides like an
afterthought, jam together and stand shoulder to shoulder like
soldiers on parade. These with the pervasive unsettling din squeeze
me breathless like the coils of a boa constrictor.
There
are some family resemblances that make New York and Lagos look like
twins. Without being told, it is easy to see that both cities are
largely reclaimed from the sea. Though concrete has been lavishly
used to suppress the moisture, yet one can sense the effect of water
resolutely exerting itself and threatening to break loose.
Both
cities seem to share a common taste for disorder. In Queens, fresh
and not so fresh litter easily asserts itself on the streets. Drivers
drive crazily as if the word “crash” no longer makes
sense in the dictionary.
As
is norm in Lagos, once the obstreperous drivers place their hands on
the horn, they keep on honking. I get the impression the din is
either music to their ears or adds some sort of hybrid mystic fuel to
their engines.
The
chaos here is however somewhat more controlled. In Lagos drivers
swing and screech in the most hair-raising manner against oncoming
traffic on roads clearly marked ONE WAY, and rain curses on other
road users they narrowly miss to hit.
But
in Queens, a semblance of order holds. No one in spite of the surging
melee seems to run the red light. In Lagos, drivers dare or rather
damn the light whenever there is enough electricity to make it come
alive.
On
our way out of the city, Isong, my young nephew, screams when he sees
a body lying on the pavement. Jamie, his mom, casually explains it as
a sleeping homeless person. I remain silent because my sensibility is
too jaded.
In
Lagos and other big Nigerian cities, bodies — whether homeless
or cadaver — just litter the roads while passersby look the
other way with the high-horse indifference of the proverbial
travelers on the road to Jericho.
Mercifully
there are no noxious smells here such as choke the daylight out of
pedestrians in Lagos. Possibly that is because there are no open
gutters running with sewage here. Also unlike Lagos where rats strut
as if they too are citizens entitled to life, liberty and the pursuit
of happiness, I find no rodents in sight.
Nigerian
folk believe that, “If there is character, ugliness becomes
beauty; if there is none, beauty becomes ugliness.” Since the
noisy and difficult to deal with New York combines, character,
beauty, and ugliness in good measure, I do not know what to make of
our time-honored wit.
Thus
confounded, I keep my impressions to myself. I have to. In the creeks
I come from in Africa, “A canoe paddler doesn't tell the
crocodile he has a long snout until he's crossed the river.”
Imo Ben Eshiet was born in Port Harcourt, Nigeria. Raised in his village, Uruk Enung, and at
several cities in his country including Nsukka, Enugu, Umuahia, Eket and Calabar, Eshiet is a
detribalized Nigerian. Although he was extensively exposed to Western education right from
childhood in his country where he obtained a PhD in English and Literary Studies from the
University of Calabar, he is well nurtured in African history, politics, culture and traditions.
Imo is currently a teacher in the high priests group in the Summit Ward of the Greensboro North
Carolina Stake.