A
few months back, the city where I have been living for the past six
years was brutally whipped by extreme weather. A freak combination of
snow storm, driving sleet, biting ice and icy rain blasted it. The
elements were so unforgiving as something that could blot out the
sun. Often they succeeded in putting airports, banks and schools on
hold.
For
one who until now had lived mostly in temperatures averaging a
blistering 90 and 100 degrees, the chilly weather was sheer torture.
Hearing
of my misery, a family in my ward loaned me a powerful heater. I
immediately went to work virtually baking myself and members of my
family with it. The killjoy, however, was my utility company. As if
protesting that my friends had stopped the weather from zapping me,
the energy company reacted with a wicked wit and burned a yawning
hole in my pocket.
With
the onset of spring my neighborhood, which all this while was
drooping and drowsing like the neck of a beheaded chicken, is fast
renewing its face. With beautiful flowers springing up everywhere,
the environment seems to be sprucing up its wardrobe as if it is
preparing for a job interview or a date.
The
happy turn of the climate and the accompanying Easter season rekindle
enlivening memories of Easter holidays in Calabar.
Since
its early contact with the West, Calabar has been a hub for
remarkable cultural events. The first Mass celebrated in the country
by the Roman Catholic Church was held in Calabar in 1903, at 19 Bocco
Street. Since then the city has become the home for several religious
and cultural organizations.
Significantly,
the first Institute of Religion built by the Church of Jesus Christ
of Latter-Day Saints in West Africa was sited in Calabar when I was
district president in the late nineties.
As
a teacher of drama in one of the local colleges, I was especially
drawn to the unique cultural history, traditions and institutions of
the city. I was particularly interested in the enduring relationship
between drama and religious activities. Throughout the three decades
I lived there was hardly a moment of dullness, as there were both
native and Western religious events to celebrate and commemorate.
Kids
and adults alike took part in street parties. These performances
featured songs, dances, mime, pantomime, and traditional masquerades.
The numerous mind-blowing religious festivals ensured that the city
was regularly swept up in compelling spectacle and colorful street
theater.
Community
centers, town halls, churches and flea markets served as stages for
these performances. There, costumed performers and spectators
interacted and fused together to re-enact their rich customs,
traditions, and common heritage, hence fostering their shared
identity.
Usually
regal-looking Efik women, one of the dominant ethnic groups in the
city, would don their long-flowing “Oyonyo”, a Victorian
style gown gathered at the waist or chest, and grace the occasion.
These
women reflected their deep-rooted traditions and history in their
ceremonial dressing and cultivated bearing. Their unique hairdo and
royal beads, bangles, ornaments and assorted adornments made eloquent
statements on the aesthetics cherished by the people for centuries.
The
men wearing beaded head gears, smart shoes, loincloths and matching
tail shirts and carrying walking staff added commanding charm to the
spectacle.
Apart
from Christmas activities that feature 32 days of shows including
carnivals, musical concerts, boat regattas, and diverse other forms
of pageantry, the Easter celebration is the next religious
page-turner in the shows put up in the city. I recall church parades
and masses of folks dressing in native clothing to act out the
historical event of the death and resurrection of Christ.
Many
in the procession held crosses woven from yellow palm fronds, while
others carried banners emblazoned with crosses and images of the
risen Christ.
As
a keen observer, the metaphor of the frond was not lost on me. In
native metaphysics, the yellow palm frond is an ancient symbol for
priestly authority. Since Easter is a significant time honored
festival in Christianity, the frond in folk imagination is an apt
symbolism for the living hope that Christ Himself represents.
So
popular was the Easter season that the government usually declared
Friday through Monday of the season as public holidays. On Easter
Friday kids would drag an effigy of Judas along the streets and
mercilessly whip it blue black for betraying the Lord of Creation.
The menacing effigy was usually made from cut banana or plantain
stems to which the kids designed and stuck mock human features.
As
they flogged these into pulp, they chanted religious songs. Some of
the songs expressed fury at the traitor. Others glorified the Savior
for overcoming the power of the grave. While some of the kids donned
masks, others carried drums, slit bamboo and iron gongs, clappers and
tortoise shells and played on these to tease dance steps from the
maskers.
They
would visit and perform at every home on the streets and in
appreciation the homeowners would dole out gifts of money and food to
them.
Their
performances celebrated life and the spirit that renews it. Perhaps
someday when these kids become adults, they would similarly reject
our festering culture of corruption and its many Judases.
Imo Ben Eshiet was born in Port Harcourt, Nigeria. Raised in his village, Uruk Enung, and at
several cities in his country including Nsukka, Enugu, Umuahia, Eket and Calabar, Eshiet is a
detribalized Nigerian. Although he was extensively exposed to Western education right from
childhood in his country where he obtained a PhD in English and Literary Studies from the
University of Calabar, he is well nurtured in African history, politics, culture and traditions.
Imo is currently a teacher in the high priests group in the Summit Ward of the Greensboro North
Carolina Stake.