At
work someone asked, “Do you celebrate Christmas in Africa?”
From the look on his face, I could tell the question was nuanced with
subtexts. What my acquaintance actually intended was, “Do you
have great malls in Africa and the electricity to light up the
Christmas season?”
Downplaying
the underlying question, I answered that perhaps the Christmas
tradition in Africa anciently harkens back to when the Ethiopian said
to the Apostle Philip, “Look, here is water. What thus hinders
me to be baptized?”
Getting
away from early century Christianity, I explained that before the
1492 landing of Columbus in the Americas, explorers who scoured the
West African coast in search of much needed spices In Europe not only
traded with Africans but also proselyted with their brand of the
gospel.
The
Bible and the sword especially in the hands of early European
missionaries and colonizers were choice modes of persuasion to win
over Africans during those early days of contact with Europe and the
traditions they brought. Inevitably Easter, Christmas and Christian
holidays were early introduced to and embraced by Africans.
Long
before money obsessed businesses and profligate politicians usurped a
season globally set aside to appreciate unmerited grace and divine
compassion and turned it into a celebration of the idolatry of money
(to borrow a phrase from Pope Francis), Christmas was one of the most
wholesome periods in rural Africa.
It
was a time for those hard-bitten by squalor, scuffed up by neglect,
and hurting from miseries and sorrow to find release in uncommon
uplift and merriment. It was a time for community service. It was a
time to magnify and strengthen family bonds, a time to eat together,
a time to recollect and share anecdotes, a time for reconciliations,
expectations and renewal of hope for the New Year.
In
my boyhood in rural Nigeria, folks stopped at nothing in pouring
their hearts and souls to making the Christmas celebration special.
Though we had other celebrations all year round, Christmas stood out
as the singular most important one in the lives of several groups. In
my local language it was known as Uchoro Awasi, literally meaning the
“Celebration of Deity.” Thus Christmas was the festival
of festivals.
The
mood in the period between Christmas and the New Year was usually
happy and enjoyable. In Nigeria most people who work and live in
cities usually return home during the festive season to celebrate
with their extended families. Thus Christmas was a time when the city
and its ideas and fashion interacted with the country and its set of
values.
People
returning home would bring gift items that were uncommon in the
villages. In return they would be feted with delicious local
cuisines, herbs, spices and art works normally unavailable in the
cities or too expensive in the cities. In anticipation of the volume
of visitors flowing into the country, such community services such as
maintaining village pathways, squares, streams and markets were
freely done by the villagers.
Cracked
mud walls were plastered over with native clay, while rutted thatched
roofs were replaced. In honor of Deity, every homestead placed
wreathes woven from palm fronds on gateways leading to their homes. I
guess the choice of palm fronds was significant because the oil palm
tree is the most important economic tree in our jungle and its deep
yellow young fronds are traditionally laden with meaning.
These
wreathes, which were so high trucks could conveniently drive through
their curves, were festooned with colored objects, crafts and flowers
(which to Westerners would easily pass as exotic). Conditioned by
centuries of rain and sunshine, many of the sparkling flowers such as
the Flame of the Forest wittily blended and projected the charm of
goodwill and peace associated with the season. Some of the flowers
like the Queen of the Night and some species of tropical hibiscus
made the atmosphere redolent with delicate, haunting fragrance.
I
recall how friendly and helpful feelings so very much permeated the
land at this time that otherwise fractious neighbors ceased
hostilities to one another. For example, there was an extended family
member with whom communication had broken down with my mom.
She
was furious because mother encouraged my sisters to attend college
instead of allowing them to be married off. She feared mother was
setting a bad example for other women over whom Mom had some measure
of influence.
This
tradition-bound family member had so bought into the narrow roles our
male-dominated society fashioned for women that she was mad at anyone
who went against the obtaining order. Naturally, since Mom had lived
in cities and had embraced ideas not yet current in the village, this
family member found her particularly annoying.
But
at Christmas, she would bring over to Mom soup locally known as
“fine-bottom” because it was rich in vegetables and
assorted seafood such as sea snails, lobsters and periwinkle. The
aroma of the soup was so mouthwatering we could perceive it long
before she arrived with her earthen clay pot delicately balanced on
her head.
Interestingly,
her soup always had smoked barracuda in it. Since that big tropical
fish fed on other fish in the sea, I couldn’t help later as an
adult, musing over its symbolism given how the two women chewed up
each other.
Mother
often reciprocated the gesture with trinkets and a bowlful of curried
goat and rice cooked with coconut milk. They would laugh and hug
themselves as long lost friends — to my amazement. In fact, I
remember that the Christmas season was one period when the destitute
didn’t have to pluck their lunch from high hanging boughs. All
that was required was a good appetite. Anyone who visited any home at
all in the community would eat and still have enough to take away.
One
particular Christmas, I over-ate so much that an aunt had to use some
special oil and herbs to massage my tummy to ease the pressure on my
lungs just so I could breathe.
Social
activities and religious observances went hand in hand. Whether
Christmas Day fell on a Sunday or not, folks held church meetings and
celebrated what they called “Usen Eno,” which means “the
Day of Gift” in our language. Religious scenes that heralded
the birth of Christ such as the annunciation were mimed or acted out
during these meetings.
Like
almost every aspect of our present day culture, Christmas is a
colorful blend of indigenous and received traditions.
My
Annang folks are renowned in West Africa for carving. Often spiritual
experiences are captured in wood carvings, the better to give
immediacy and permanence to their impressions. Before contact with
Christianity, local deities were venerated and represented in
carvings and raffia work.
They
bring this tradition to their current religion. At Christmas, for
instance, nativity images are depicted as motifs in mural, masks and
raffia. Since childhood, the imagery of Joseph, Mary and the Magi
adoring the child Jesus has remained indelible in my mind as result
of the paintings and carving I saw in our homes and local churches.
The
Magi with their regal bearing, apparel, walking staff and gifts to
the newborn child left a long-lasting impression of royalty and grace
on my young mind because how they looked like in wood carving
resonated with the chiefs and wise elders carried themselves in real
life in my community.
I
could relate to the child in the manger because the surroundings and
the animals captured in the paintings and carvings were so very
similar to my reality because we too lived with the domestic animals
we raised.
To
drive home the royalty of the newborn Jesus, the dances, songs and
other musical performances usually reserved for special social and
cultural ceremonies such as the crowning of kings were elaborately
staged on village squares and playgrounds.
Horn-blowers
with elephant tusks, drummers and exquisitely costumed dancers in
long processions moved through the community regaling folks with what
the birth of Christ meant to them. Stories were not merely narrated
but enacted in charming memorable ways.
The
Christmas pageant was the event to look to in my childhood. Though
every other festival had its peculiar appeal, yet it all paled in
significance when compared to the festivities and ceremonies held in
memory of the child Jesus.
Imo Ben Eshiet was born in Port Harcourt, Nigeria. Raised in his village, Uruk Enung, and at
several cities in his country including Nsukka, Enugu, Umuahia, Eket and Calabar, Eshiet is a
detribalized Nigerian. Although he was extensively exposed to Western education right from
childhood in his country where he obtained a PhD in English and Literary Studies from the
University of Calabar, he is well nurtured in African history, politics, culture and traditions.
Imo is currently a teacher in the high priests group in the Summit Ward of the Greensboro North
Carolina Stake.